REVIEW: JEWELLERY 13 SEPTEMBER

The top seven lots in Noonans 13 September Jewellery auction provided an excellent snapshot of market strength, together outstripping their combined high estimates by almost 80%. Stealing the show, as expected, was the stunning early 20th century diamond ring, formerly the property of the remarkable businesswoman, philanthropist and Jewish scholar, Mrs Flora Abraham Sassoon.

Weighing in at 3.32 carats, the beautiful old cushion-cut diamond was presented in an attractive garland setting, circa 1910. Passed down through the Sassoon family, here it sold for £38,000, against a pre-sale estimate of £20,000-30,000. A Boodle & Dunthorne stylish single stone diamond ring, of 3.01 carats, mounted in platinum, was a classic of its kind and had been expected to fetch £7,000-9,000. The hammer fell at £22,000. The catalogue cover lot was an early 19th century diamond bow brooch, set with old cushion-shaped diamonds mounted in silver and gold, with a total diamond weight of approximately 15 carats. A particularly fine period example and estimated at £6,000-8,000, the brooch reached £18,000. One of the most striking lots in the sale was a diamond and ruby Trophy of Love pendant, complete with flaming Hymenean torch and a quiver of arrows, both picked out in calibré-cut rubies and old single-cut diamonds. Crossed together, they were set in a delicate and articulated oval garland hoop of diamond-set flowers and foliage, with a diamond ribbon surmount and pear-shaped diamond-set drops below; in all, a stunning confection. Bidders agreed, taking the price well past its £3,000-4,000 guide to £18,000. Other statement pieces attracted strong bidding: a solitaire diamond ring set with a 3.79 carat old cushion-cut stone, within in a collet mount, rapidly exceeded its estimate of £6,000-8,000, the final successful bid reaching £17,000. A suite of jewels comprising a sapphire and diamond cluster necklace, bracelet and pair of matched ear clips was another winner, going above its top estimate of £10,000 to sell for £12,000, whilst an early 19th century untreated Sri Lankan sapphire and diamond cluster ring, mounted in silver and gold, took £10,000 against hopes of £5,000-7,000. Noonans’ Head of Jewellery, Frances Noble, said: “The current demand at auction for fine quality jewels and watches, both antique and modern, was clearly visible at our recent sale, with exceptional prices being paid by UK and overseas buyers for the finest pieces. The increasingly strong demand for fine 19th century old-cut and old cushion-cut diamonds was particularly in evidence. The sale as a whole illustrates the continuing trend of growth in the luxury sectors of the auction market today.”