ART DECO AQUAMARINE BROOCH AMONG THE JEWELLERY HIGHLIGHTS AT NOONANS MAYFAIR

A stunning Art Deco aquamarine and diamond double clip brooch, circa 1935-1940, will be offered at Noonans Mayfair in a sale of Jewellery, Watches, Silver and Objects of Vertu on Tuesday, March 12, 2024. It is estimated at £3,000-5,000 [lot 316]

Frances Noble, Associate Director and Head of Jewellery at Noonans commented: “Although unsigned, this piece shows considerable similarities to Cartier’s aquamarine set jewels, most of which was produced by the company’s London branch from 1932 onwards. During the economic depression of this period Cartier started using semi-precious stones such as aquamarine and topaz as a more affordable alternative for their clients. As with Cartier’s examples, this brooch illustrates a progression from the geometric rigidity of Art Deco designs of the previous decade towards a new expressive use of curves and volutes allowing the aquamarines to take centre stage.”

The sale will include fine diamond and gem-set pieces: a Colombian emerald and diamond three stone ring, the emerald of hexagonal cut, and graded as having negligible clarity enhancement, is expected to fetch £10,000-12,000 [lot 298]. A Fancy Light yellow diamond ring, weighing 4.13 carats, is estimated at £10,000-20,000 [lot 306]; a Sri Lankan yellow sapphire pendant and earrings, originally purchased in Colombo in the early 20th century, is expected to sell for £20,000-30,000 [lot 301] and a charming gem-set elephant cuff, the bicolour cuff applied with four gem set elephants in marching formation is estimated at £8,000-10,000 [lot 237].

A stunning American silver and gold gem-set bracelet by Ghiso, circa 1935, of bold design, is estimated at £1,500-2,000 [lot 189].

Further highlights include a 19th century hardstone cameo bracelet and necklace suite, the bracelet centred with an oval cameo signed ‘GIROMETTI‘, the suite estimated at £4,000-6,000 [lot 305]. Giuseppe Girometti (1779-1851) was an Italian gem-engraver, sculptor and medallist, considered one of the finest gem-engravers in the first half of the 19th century. In 1812, he was elected to the Academia di San Luca in Rome as an engraver of hardstones, receiving numerous awards. On the command of master sculptor Canova, he was employed by the Papal Mint from 1822 as head engraver. 

Noonans has gained a reputation for selling works by the goldsmith/architect Louis Osman. A large hand painted watercolour and pencil study for the Prince of Wales Investiture Crown made by Osman in 1969 is estimated to fetch £1,000-1,500 [lot 463].

WATCHES
The auction will include 11 watches from Pierre Cardin’s Espace Collection that are being offered by a private UK Collector. Pierre Cardin, the Italian-born, French fashion designer (1922-2020) was known for his avant-guarde style and space age designs. He founded his fashion house in 1950 and focused on geometric shapes and motifs, his experimental designs were alternative and not always practical. He famously designed the collarless suits for the Beatles in 1963 and Nasa Spacesuits in 1970. Inspired by Space exploration, Pierre Cardin launched the Espace collection of wristwatches in 1971. A time of playful and alternative experimentation Cardin was surely influenced by such cult movies as Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey and Jane Fonda’s Barbarella which were both released in 1968. There were 26 models within the collection in total, incorporating manual winding movements from Jaeger and housed in futuristic cases manufactured using distinctive ’70’s materials. Pierre Cardin himself is quoted as saying - ‘The infinity of space is more inspiring than anything else’. Estimates range from £100 upwards.

SILVER & OBJECTS OF VERTU
Among the silver and objects of vertu section is a wide selection of gold and silver boxes. A fine Swiss enamelled snuff box by Remond Lamy & Cie of Geneva, circa 1800, is expected to sell for £7,000-8,000 [lot 446]. A Private Collection of more than 30 lots of snuff boxes and vinaigrettes is also included in the sale, including a rare castle top vinaigrette by Nathaniel Mills, depicting the ruins of Dryburgh Abbey in Berwickshire and hallmarked for 1835 is estimated at £300-500 [lot 412].

A George IV Irish provincial silver-gilt City of Cork freedom box by Richard Garde of Cork and engraved with presentation inscription reading: “The Freedom at Large of the City of Cork was unanimously voted to Liet. Gen. Lord Combermere. Commanding His Majesty’s Forces In Ireland. Sept. 18th, 1824.” It is being sold by a member of the family and estimated at £3,000-4,000 [lot 501].


As Frances Noble adds: “Freedom boxes were presented to persons who were granted the honorary freedom of a city or town. These were usually distinguished non-residents who had rendered great service in some way; they were also exempt from further payment of tolls. A number of these boxes were manufactured principally by the silversmiths of Dublin and Cork.”

Viscount Combermere had a long and distinguished military career. He served in Northern France and Flanders early in the French revolutionary wars, then in India and then fought in the Peninsular War before becoming governor of Barbados. 
In 1822, he was placed in command of British forces in Ireland. He ended his military career as Constable of the Tower of London as Keeper of the Rolls and Lord Lieutenant of Tower Hamlets and died a Field Marshall, full of honours, at the advanced age of 91. His equestrian statue stands outside Chester castle.