Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

An 18ct gold bracelet by Gay Frères, circa 1971, designed as a series of stepped oval plaques each with a textured finish, accompanied by one additional link, maker’s mark, French assay marks, London import mark, length 17cm. £1,800-£2,200

The workshop of Gay Frères was created in 1835 by Jean-Pierre Gay and Gaspard Tissot in Geneva. They specialised in making chains for pocket watches and jewellery and by the beginning of the 20th century were supplying watch bracelets for the biggest Swiss watch companies. Rolex was an early client and Gay Frères produced stainless steel, gold and platinum bracelets for them. By the 1940s, they were supplying Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, and soon also working for other watch makers including Audermars Piquet and Jaeger LeCoultre. By the 1970s, the company, still family owned, were running the largest factory in Geneva, employing over 500 specialist craftsmen. Gay Frères went on to create jewellery for the prestigious Parisian Maisons such as Hermès and Van Cleef & Arpels. They continue to be regarded as world specialists in handmade chains and watch bracelets, and still produce a new jewellery collection each year - including chain necklaces, bracelets, torques, cuffs and rings in a variety of gold finishes and textures. Their jewellery of the 1960s and 70s is particularly sought after.