An Art Deco aquamarine and diamond double clip brooch, circa 1935, each clip centred with rectangular step-cut aquamarine volutes bordered by brilliant-cut diamonds, between radiating baguette-cut diamonds, the curved design edged by oval-cut aquamarines, platinum mounted, with original frame, clip length 3.2cm, length within frame 6.4cm. £3,000-£5,000

Although unsigned, this piece shows considerable similarities to Cartier’s aquamarine set jewels, most of which was produced by the company’s London branch from 1932 onwards. During the economic depression of this period Cartier started using semi-precious stones such as aquamarine and topaz as a more affordable alternative for their clients. As with Cartier’s examples, this brooch illustrates a progression from the geometric rigidity of Art Deco designs of the previous decade towards a new expressive use of curves and volutes allowing the aquamarines to take centre stage.