Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A late 19th century gold mounted topaz and enamel bracelet, by Mrs Newman, the six circular collet set topaz spaced by seven four-petal cream flower heads, to a oval-cut topaz concealed clasp, the reverse of the clasp stamped ‘Mrs N’, contained in original blue velvet fitted case, the silk signed ‘Mrs Newman, Goldsmith & Court Jeweller, 10 Saville Row, W’, length 16.7cm, gross weight 19gm. £800-1200

Mrs Philip Newman or Charlotte Isabella Newman (1836-1920) is credited with being the first important female studio jeweller in Victorian London, at a time when jewellery manufacture was considered a purely male profession.

A skilled goldsmith, she trained at the Government Art School in South Kensington before becoming assistant in the 1860s to John Brogden, a leading British jeweller working in the archaeological revivalist taste. Charlotte Newman worked alongside Brogden, making pieces in the Classical and Renaissance revival styles, and her jewellery were exhibited alongside Brogden’s at the Paris International Exhibitions in Paris in 1867, and in 1878 where Brogden was awarded the Legion d’Honneur, and Charlotte Newman was also given a medal of honour for her collaboration with Brogden. Both Brogden and Charlotte Newman were extremely prolific, with Mrs Newman often producing the designs for Brogden’s pieces. The Victoria and Albert Museum holds an album of 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmiths’ work produced between 1848 and 1884. To quote the jewellery historian Shirley Bury, “Charlotte Newman at John Brogden’s was unable fully to spread her wings until she set up on her own after his (Brogden’s) death in 1884”. She then established her own business in Saville Row, retaining many of the craftsmen who had worked for Brogden.

Whilst producing designs in popular styles of the time, Charlotte Newman rarely produced two pieces alike, signing her work ‘N’ or ‘Mrs N’.

See Shirley Bury: JEWELLERY The International Era 1789 - 1910, Volume II 1862-1910 page 611.