Jewellery, Watches, Antiquities and Objects of Vertu

An amethyst and purple sapphire ‘Luna’ ring, by Shaun Leane, 2011, the polished fancy-cut amethyst within an abstract surround pavé-set with circular-cut purple sapphires, mounted in 18ct white gold, UK hallmark, maker’s mark, signed ’Shaun Leane’, maker’s case, ring size Q - R. £1,500-£2,000

Born in 1969, Shaun Leane is a British goldsmith and longtime collaborator with the late fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen, CBE. 

At the age of sixteen, Shaun Leane started a seven-year apprenticeship in Hatton Garden with the company English Traditional Jewellery. On completion of his training, he continued to work for the firm for another six years, specialising in the restoration and reproduction of Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewels. A chance meeting with Alexander McQueen in 1992 allowed Leane to begin creating his own pieces. Having initially bonded over a mutual desire for creative freedom, the pair went on to design and make iconic and provocative catwalk jewels that challenged perceptions of sculptural form and femininity. Their passion for craftsmanship and symbolic design bridged the worlds of fashion and jewellery and saw the creation of three-dimensional pieces considered contemporary works of art in their own right. The use of less traditional materials, such as aluminium, chosen for their creative versatility rather than intrinsic value, was a theme also seen in the designs of other British jewellers, such as Andrew Grima and John Donald.

Leane and McQueen worked together for over 17 years up until McQueen’s death in 2010. 

During his career Leane has collaborated with various houses, including Asprey, Boucheron, De Beers and Givenchy. His jewels are regularly seen on the red carpet, worn by celebrities such as Björk, Elton John, Kate Moss and Lady Gaga. In 2011 thirty of his works were exhibited at the Victoria and Albert Museum’s retrospective exhibition, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. He is the four-time recipient of the UK Jewellery Designer of the Year, and, in 2020, published an extensive and personal monograph charting his 36 years as a designer-maker.