Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

An Indian gold mounted ruby ring, mid 19th century, the rectangular cushion-shaped cabochon ruby in claw setting, the shoulders carved with scrolling leaf fronds of ‘murudi’ design, shank unsigned, ring size E½. £1,500-£2,000

Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that the geological occurrence of the ruby is common to Afghanistan, Vietnam etc, with no evidence of heat treatment. Report number 21122, dated 4 February 2022.


Claw settings were probably introduced into Indian jewellery by the late 18th century as Indian jewellers copied pieces worn by their new European clients.

Filigree work, an ancient Indian art form, incorporates designs including those largely based on the spiral, and the term ‘murudi’ is used for the curling leaf form seen in the decoration of this ring.


Literature: Traditional Jewelry of India by Oppi Untracht, pub. Thames & Hudson, 2007 edition, page 298.