Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

An oval icon/locket pendant on chain, by Mario Buccellati, circa 1925, the outer border of pierced foliate ‘modellato’ decoration, with pearl and rose-cut diamond highlights and gold ribbon detail to the cardinal points, centred with a glazed compartment enclosing a silver and silver-gilt panel engraved with scene of the Holy Family with St Joseph, against a textured ground, the panel gold edged, the reverse with similar pierced work border and central hinged glazed compartment, the interior trimmed with fine two colour scalloped border, and signed to the inner rim: ‘M. BUCCELLATI - MILANO - ROMA’’ suspended from a two row seed pearl and textured gold bead chain, contained within fitted brown leather case by Mario Buccellati, Milano Roma Firenze, length excluding suspensory loop 59mm, chain length 65cm. £5,000-£7,000

Mario Buccellati was the founder of one of Italy’s greatest jewellery houses.

Born in 1891 into a family of goldsmiths, Mario Buccellati was apprenticed to the jewellers Beltrami & Bernati in Milan. After the First World War, in 1919, the former ‘apprentice’ took over the firm, renaming the company with the family name, the jewellery store located at Largo Santa Margherita, near La Scala Theatre and Milan cathedral.

Inspired by the arts of the Italian Renaissance, Buccellati were unusual in that all the processes for producing a jewel were performed in one workshop, from the original design to the finished piece. Mario introduced various methods of texture-engraving, often using mixed metals of silver and gold, or platinum and gold. The different engraving techniques are called rigato (parallel lines cut on to the surface of metal to obtain a sheen effect), telato (texture, obtained by fine cross-hatched lines imitating the texture of linen), segrinato (engraving in every direction with overlapping textures), ornato (decoration based on natural forms such as animals, leaves and flowers), and modellato (the most delicate engraving technique reproducing several designs chiselled in three dimensions, mainly used for decorative borders). When the process is complete, the finish will often resemble a fine fabric - linen, lace or silk.

Mario’s work was widely acclaimed at the 1920 Exposition in Madrid where his entire collection was sold. His prestigious clientele included the Royal families of Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom, popes, cardinals and intellectuals, as well as musicians, writers and famous artists. The renowned Italian poet, Gabriele D’Annunzio, friend and client of Mario, described him as the ‘Prince of Goldsmiths’.
Mario opened two boutiques, one in Rome in 1925 and one in Florence four years later. In 1951, Mario and his son Luca opened their first store in New York, with another following, on 5th Avenue, in 1954.
In 1965, after the death of Mario, the management of the firm was conducted by four of his five sons. In 1971, the new separate brand Gianmaria Buccellati was launched by Gianmaria, who would go on to open stores around the world, including the Place Vendome in Paris. Gianmaria also established the Italian Gemological Institute, IGI, in 1973, remaining it’s president for the next quarter century.

In 2011, the two firms of Mario Buccellati and Gianmaria Buccellati merged to form the single firm of Buccellati.