Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

An Italian silver cuff retailed by Dunhill, mid 20th century, the cuff formed of fluted panels with textured Florentine finish, set with alternating pink and blue gem-set highlights, each with engraved starburst detailing to the surround, stamped ‘DUNHILL’, ‘STERLING’, ‘925’ and ‘MADE IN FLORENCE’, length 19cm. £400-£600

The ‘Florentine finish’ is a specialist technique little known outside of traditional Italian workshops. The engraving of tiny cross-hatched lines across silver or gold transforms the surface of the material and creates an almost matte or ‘frosted’ finish. The effect is extremely difficult to achieve and requires not only strength to engrave, but acute hand eye co-ordination to ensure the lines are perpendicular and also a consistent application of pressure to ensure an even surface texture. The ‘Florentine
finish’ is particularly associated with the Italian jewellery firm of Buccellati.