Jewellery, Watches and Objects of Vertu

A diamond and pearl clip brooch by Cartier, mid twentieth century, the five petal flowerhead naturalistically modelled and centrally set with a pearl within an old brilliant-cut diamond cluster, the openwork petals similarly set throughout, mounted in platinum, signed ‘Cartier London’, numbered ‘W.3534’, maker’s red leather case, diameter 34mm. £5,000-£7,000

Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that the button-shaped pearl is of natural saltwater origin. Report number 21765, dated 4 June 2022.



From the 1940s, Cartier’s designers Peter Lemarchand in Paris and Frederick A. Mew in London began to favour more realistic representations of flowers, including roses, orchids and dahlias, the most famous example being the Williamson diamond flower brooch, (in the Royal Collection RC1N 200146), designed by Mew, and commissioned from Cartier in 1952 by Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip, to incorporate the flawless pink brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 23.60 carats, given as a wedding gift to the Royal couple by Dr John Thorburn Williamson.

Literature: Nadelhoffer H. ‘Cartier’, London 1984, pub. Thames & Hudson, page 187.