Jewellery, Silver and Objects of Vertu

A platinum and cultured pearl torque collar by Louis Osman, 1984, of tapered openwork form, comprising four square section strands spaced with small cultured pearls between, to large cultured pearl terminals, in platinum and gold, hallmarked for London 1984, with maker’s mark ‘LO’, in fitted case, neck circumference approximately 38cm. £8,000-£12,000




Please note ARR will apply to this lot (Artist’s Resale Rights).

A few years after the introduction of its hallmarking in 1975, Louis became interested in using platinum for more of his creations. So when the Jenkins bought two large pearls during a trip to Asia, and then visited Louis in June 1983, it came as no surprise that Louis was keen to utilise platinum. He still, however, wanted to follow his usual practice of using the purist metal possible, which was more difficult to obtain for platinum, than for gold (or silver). As such, the commission was delayed by the difficulties he encountered when seeking to obtain what he wanted: “Still no pure platinum delivered [from Johnson Matthey] but as soon as possible in a Happy New Year” (note in the hand drawn Louis & Dylis Christmas Card 1983). The pure platinum (99.999) finally arrived, which enabled him to complete this commission in June 1984. Even with this use of a newer metal for him, Louis retained his particular style:
“Many silversmiths will hammer silver and then polish, but Louis, again emulating the medieval smiths, insisted on mirror-finished tools, which leave the original marks. If one looks closely [...] hammer marks are there, giving the piece strength and character.” J. Moore, (page 93).

While Louis was the designer and creative force behind the jewels, he always respected and nurtured the skills of the craftsmen who helped to bring them to life, whether silversmiths, engravers, enamellers (such as his wife Dilys), or in the case of this pearl torc a local dentist! In February 1984 Louis wrote to Mrs Jenkins regarding the pearls:
“I have arranged to have the drilling done by a local dentist who is a keen amateur jeweller. He has the finest equipment which I have not got yet : compressed air drills (minimal vibration) water cooled and of course a very steady hand so that the risk will be reduced to a minimum : but there IS still a risk : always. I am 3⁄4 drilling them so that no metal shows to mask their Beauty : with a dove-tail drilling rather larger than normal so that there is plenty of strength.” (2 February 1984).


According to a verbal report from GCS, the two principal pearls are beaded cultured saltwater pearls. Verbal report number 5785-0140.




Exhibited:
In Celebration of Gold and Silver: An exhibition of exquisite jewellery and magnificent silver made during the reign of Queen Elizabeth II, a Goldsmiths’ Company exhibition at Goldsmiths’ Hall, May - July 2002, exhibition catalogue no. 97, (illustrated).



A copy of this exhibition catalogue and an invitation to an exhibition and sale of works including Louis Osman, at St. Mary’s Church, Monnington-on-Wye, on 13 and 14 April 1984, accompanies this lot together with further related correspondence.

This lot is accompanied by hand written correspondence between Louis Osman and Mrs Jenkins regarding the commission of this suite:
An invitation to lunch to discuss the commission using the two pearls, dated 27 June 1983.
A letter regarding the design of the torc, dated 27 September 1983.
A letter discussing the drilling of the pearls and their mounting, dated 2 February 1984.
A letter explaining that the torc will not be ready until the end of April due to difficulties in ordering the required quantities of precious metals and delays in new drilling tools arriving, dated 27 March 1984.
A letter saying the the pearls are being drilled and the precious metal will arrive in the next 10 days, dated 6 April 1984.
A letter saying pearls have been drilled and platinum is due to arrive, dated 27 April 1984.
A hand written receipt for payment for necklet, dated 12 June 1984.
A hand written valuation of the necklet, dated 12 June 1984.

This lot is also accompanied by a catalogue of the exhibition: In Celebration of Gold and Silver, and an invitation to an exhibition and sale of works including Louis Osman, at St. Mary’s Church, Monnington-on-Wye, on 13 and 14 April 1984.