EXPERT VIEW: THE ABCs OF WATCH COLLECTING WITH JOANNE LEWIS OF NOONANS

Collecting watches is a personal journey – exploring the history of horology, the craftsmanship and the aesthetic appreciation. Whatever brand, era or complications you choose to focus on there are many things to consider in the watch market.

Here Noonans’ Watches specialist Joanne Lewis points out a few key elements to help you understand the dynamics of this market.

AVAILABILITY

The less available a watch is in the market increases its demand and desirability. Rolex is one of the most famous luxury brands in the world and demand for its watches exceeds supply.

The most sought after is the Rolex Daytona ‘Paul Newman’. The watch acquired its nickname after the actor was seen wearing the model while filming the movie, Winning in 1969. Known for its exotic dial configurations with square indexes, prices for these watches exceed £150,000.

Limited editions: Watch brands are known to produce limited edition pieces, the lower the number produced the more effective this is in making them sought-after collectors’ items.

Rolex has a history of being commissioned by military organisations to produce models for specialists such as divers and pilots.

Bremont, the award-winning English watch brand, has a close relationship with the military and produced the special edition Supermarine wristwatch for the Coronation of King Charles III. Only 50 of these pieces were made available to those working for, or closely associated with, The Royal Household.


BRAND

The luxury watch brands are those that have a long history of craftsmanship and horological advancements. These highly regarded manufactures produce pieces exquisitely designed and constructed, which will last for generations.

Here are some of the top brands at auction.

Patek Philippe
Rolex
Cartier
Audemars Piguet
Vacheron Constantin
Omega
Breguet
Piaget

CONDITION

When buying period pieces, condition is a key element.

Dial: An original dial on a period watch is a thing of beauty; when it has its original patina, it has a special appeal to a collector.

Case: The more a watch is worn over time, the more dents and scuffs it will have. A watch that has been only worn occasionally and still has its original contouring and bevelling is something to look out for.

Accessories: If a watch retains its presentation case and paperwork, this can add extra value.

When looking to buy a watch, ensure you ask for a condition report and ask questions on its condition.

Taking all of the above into account, don’t forget to enjoy yourself and to collect watches that resonate with you, whether that is an elegant Cartier Tank or Patek Philippe Calatrava or a robust sports model like an Omega Speedmaster or Rolex Sea-Dweller.