REVIEW: JEWELLERY, WATCHES, SILVER AND OBJECTS OF VERTU: 10 SEPTEMBER

Demonstrating the enduring appeal of the Cartier Tank watch, an early London-made example hallmarked for London 1941 left its pre-sale estimate of £5,000-7,000 far behind when it sold to a private collector for the hammer price of £24,000.

With a highly collectable London hallmark, and the dial signed by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Cartier Tank watch illustrated the continuing strength of the auction market for early Cartier timepieces.

 

The Cartier Tank was created by Louis Cartier in 1917, inspired by the military tanks used on the Western Front in World War I.

Cartier opened their first London store in 1902 at 4 New Burlington Street. Just three years later they moved to larger premises, at 175-177 New Bond Street. where they still remain today.

The top floors of the building were used for their workshops where they trained English jewellers and watchmakers in the Cartier style and aesthetic. From 1920 to 1966, Cartier London sold wristwatches using movements from companies, such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The London workshops went on to produce their own line of wristwatches in the 1960s. These pieces have become symbols of innovative design, creativity and craftsmanship, which includes the much sought after Cartier Crash with its unique asymmetric case.

Leading a fine array of diamond jewellery in the auction was a stunning single stone ring, set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 6.01 carats, mounted between baguette-cut diamonds shoulders and selling for a hammer price of £22,000.

A Russian Imperial jewelled 14 carat gold presentation cigarette case exceeded expectations in the Objects of Vertu section.. From St Petersburg, post 1908, it bore the maker’s mark for Gabriel Nykänen (Niukkanen) and an inscription indicating that it had been a gift from the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna, Consort of Czar Alexander III, to the wife of Admiral N. C. Palmer RN, Captain of the Royal Yacht Victoria & Albert from August 1909 - December 1913.

Of rounded rectangular form, it was decorated throughout with bands of reeding, the hinged cover applied with a diamond-set crowned Imperial double-headed eagle, with cabochon sapphire thumbpiece, contained in fitted case by jewellers A. Tillander.

Gabriel Nykänen is known to have worked in St Petersburg from 1889-1917, both independently and as a workmaster for Fabergé. Estimated at £5,000-7,000, the cigarette case sold for a hammer price of £9,500.