PREVIEW: JEWELLERY, WATCHES, SILVER & OBJECTS OF VERTU: 26 NOVEMBER

Leading the Louis Osman highlights in the 26 November jewellery auction is this exceptional 22ct gold opal parure dating to 1972 and 1973 from the Jenkins Collection. Comprising a hinged torque collar, hinged bangle, brooch, pair of ear pendants and ring, it is expected to fetch £40,000-60,000.

Each piece is of organic branching form, supporting graduated oval cabochon opals each claw set above a concave dish mount, the gold with hammered finish, the necklace, earrings, ring and bracelet all hallmarked for London 1972, with maker’s mark ‘LO’. The brooch is unmarked. The whole is presented within a customised carved yew wood and silver fitted case.

 

Another of the Osman highlights is the 22ct gold azurite crystal and sapphire necklace, dating to 1982 and also shown here.

The articulated necklace with detachable central pendant drop, is composed of graduated azurite crystals in irregular gold closed back settings. The principal links each support a central rectangular step-cut sapphire with irregular gold panel links between. They are joined to a panel link collar back chain, highlighted with further small azurite crystals, hallmarked for London 1982, with maker’s mark ‘LO’.

The sapphires in this suite – and the opals for the parure described above– were acquired by Maurice Jenkins from the Perth jewellers Mazzucchelli’s over regular trips to Australia during the late 1960s and ‘70s.

“Louis and Mrs Jenkins began discussing the commission of this necklace in July 1976; however, amongst other various explanations given for the delays, this period coincided with the Osman family leaving Canons Ashby and struggling to find the right premises to which to relocate their household and workshops,” said Noonans’ Head of Jewellery Frances Noble.

“In the event, the necklace was eventually finished in 1982. In one of a number of letters to Dorothy Jenkins, Louis apologised for the ongoing delays. Once the necklace was completed, Louis wrote to Mrs Jenkins: “I consider it one of the best things, artistically, that I’ve ever done & this view is shared by the aged 35 artist/jeweller that I have working for me, & who worked on it with me. He says its [sic] the only jewel that has ever given him the ‘whoomph feeling in the pit of his stomach: like some rare pieces of music do’, which is nice. I regard azurite as quite the equal to any diamond or Ruby youd [sic] see at Buckingham Palace...”



The necklace was included in Louis Osman Jewellery Exhibition, by The British Council of Arts, in Lisbon, 14 November - 11 December 1990.

An original pen and watercolour design for this suite was sold as part of The Personal Archive of Louis Osman at Noonans on 27 March 2018 (lot 288). Here the necklace is accompanied by photocopies of paperwork and press cuttings, and an original leaflet relating to the Louis Osman Jewellery, Lisbon exhibition, and photocopies of paperwork relating to the exhibition In Celebration of Gold and Silver.

Presented in its original fitted case, the estimate is £20,000-30,000.