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PREVIEW: JEWELLERY, SILVER & OBJECTS OF VERTU: 17 JUNE

Highlights from the Jewellery and Objects of Vertu. 

1 May 2025

DIAMONDS TO THE FORE, WHILE CIGARETTE CASES COYLY CONCEAL EROTICA

A fine selection of diamond set jewels leads the highlights in this auction, including an early 20th century diamond set ring, the cushion-cut diamond of 2.98 carats, F colour and VS2 clarity, estimated at £8,000-12,000; and a single stone diamond mounted with a transition-cut diamond weighing 4.70 carats, estimated at £15,000-20,000.

A three row cultured pearl necklace with a 19th century diamond set clasp of design is expected to realise £7,000-10,000, while a pair of Royal Presentation gold cufflinks by Cartier, with monogram for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, together with a signed photograph of the couple, is estimated at £2,000-3,000.

 

The auction will also include a Private Collection of erotic silver and enamel cigarette cases.
The popularity of cigarette cases in the early 20th century coincided with the rise of mass-produced cigarettes, leading to cigarette holders and vesta cases becoming high fashion accessories and status symbols.

The cigarette cases, made of silver, electro plate or white metal, may be decorated either with enamelled scenes to the exterior, or have concealed erotic scenes within a plain outer case.

Common themes included nude or semi-naked women, in landscapes or interior settings. They proved popular in Continental Europe, in particular those made in Germany and Austria which often depicted racier subjects than the rather more ‘conservative’ British made examples.

The Private Collection in the 17 June auction comprises six enamelled cigarette cases, all in excellent condition, three examples with plain exteriors, but enclosing erotic scenes within, and three further examples decorated to the front, but with rather more modest imagery.

Estimates range from £600-1,200.

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