REVIEW: JEWELLERY AT NOONANS

When Frances Noble and Laura Smith launched a new Jewellery department at what was then Dix Noonan Webb a decade ago – 11 November 2015 – they brought with them a wealth of auction experience and professional expertise.

Their inaugural sale in March 2016 featured some of the most famous makers, from Buccellati, Cartier and Andrew Grima to Graff, Rolex and Patek Philippe – all of whom would feature regularly in later sales. Individual estimates reached five figures, while the sale netted a total hammer price of more than £250,000, the star lot being an unusual ‘harlequin’ rivière necklace, dating from the 1860s and set with vari-coloured gemstones, which soared above its £15,000-20,000 estimate to fetch £30,000.

Since then, the offerings from the Jewellery department have expanded to include ancient and historic pieces such as Medieval and post-Medieval jewels, and posy rings (with a particular focus on detectorist finds), to important pieces with Royal connections. Every precious gem imaginable has featured, with individual stones achieving extraordinary prices, while the department has steadfastly championed post-war and contemporary designers, in some cases helping to bring them to greater prominence and recognition.

As the department became well established, prices climbed and consignments became ever more interesting, attractive and valuable.

Five-figure sums for individual lots of jewellery became more frequent at the start of the 2020s, such as the pair of late 19th century large diamond drop ear pendants which sold for £62,000 in November 2020.

Topping the March 2023 auction was a stunning 10.13 carat diamond single stone ring, set with a Fancy Light yellow brilliant, that sold above estimate for £80,000.

Early jewels were becoming a specialist area. One of Noonans’ first detectorist success stories was a gold armorial ring c.1640-80, found on the shores of Loch Lomond in Scotland, and subsequently sold for £14,000 in September 2019. Research by the department’s specialists discovered that the likely owner had been Edward Colman, a Catholic convert with high political ambitions who acted as a bodyguard to King Charles II before going on to greater things. Further detectorist finds included The Lady Brook Medieval Love ring, selling in November 2022 for £38,000, and recently the King Row Ring, a 12th/13th century gem-set Bishop’s ring, probably associated with the Bishops of Ely, selling for £19,000.

The Jewellery department has led the way for Noonans to host and sponsor in-house exhibitions, both selling and non-selling, including BENNEY, DEVLIN & THE PEARSON SILVER COLLECTION (October 2023), MODERN BRITISH DESIGNER JEWELLLERY and LOUIS OSMAN, THE JENKINS FAMILY COLLECTION (2024), continuing to champion post-war and contemporary design.

Royalty has featured strongly, especially in the past five years. Several pieces belonging to Her late Royal Highness The Princess Margaret have caused a sensation on Noonans’ (then DNW) rostrum. These culminated in the £320,000 hammer price in September 2021 for a stunning Art Deco cultured pearl and diamond bracelet, worn by the Princess for her 19th birthday photograph taken by Cecil Beaton at Buckingham Palace in 1949. The estimate had been £30,000-40,000.

Other notable royal pieces included the Queen Elizabeth II’s personal gift to Lavinia, Duchess of Norfolk, who stood in for Her Majesty during rehearsals for the Coronation services at Westminster Abbey in June 1953. The diamond brooch designed in Her Majesty’s ER cypher, and accompanied by a handwritten note from the Queen sold for £180,000 in June 2022. The same sale saw a successful bid of £60,000 for an Art Deco diamond brooch that had once belonged to Princess Margaret. The same sale included an exquisite Art Deco diamond brooch formerly the property of Her Royal Highness The Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon. Dating from circa 1930, the geometrically designed brooch was mounted in platinum and was bought by the vendor from an auction at Sotheby’s in 1979, which had included a collection of seven jewels sold on behalf of Princess Margaret. The diamond brooch sold for £60,000.

A limited edition 18ct gold coin watch by Garrard to commemorate the 80th year of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother took £3,800 in December 2022. Louis Osman’s designs for the Prince of Wales crown for the 1969 Investiture at Carnarvon Castle have also featured.

As the department goes from strength to strength, 2025 has proved another exciting year. A thrilling highlight was the discovery of the historically important – and previously unrecorded – 16th century Warner ‘Grasshopper’ seal ring, presented as a gift by the great Tudor financier and merchant, Sir Thomas Gresham (1519-1579), financial agent to four Tudor monarchs: Henry VIII, Edward VI, Mary and finally Elizabeth I. It sold for a hammer price of £42,000 on 17 June.

“Our first ten years have been an extraordinary rollercoaster of excitement and new challenges, and a great deal of hard work,” says Frances Noble, Head of the department. “It has been especially rewarding to achieve remarkable prices for our vendors, so often the result of detailed historical background research. We are proud to continue to champion the work of leading post-war designers such as Louis Osman, whose name has gained further national and international recognition following recent sales of his pieces here at Noonans.

“We never lose sight of the prime objective – to do the absolute best for our consignors, and to offer a wholly professional yet personal service above and beyond that of our competitors.

“Keep an eye out for more stunning highlights in our 25 November auction, to include more Royal jewels, and pieces formerly the property of actress Elizabeth Taylor.”