REVIEW: JEWELLERY, SILVER, WATCHES & OBJECTS OF VERTU: 28 NOVEMBER

When beauty and history come together, they make for a powerful pairing, as an Art Deco brooch proved in this auction when it doubled top estimate to sell for £30,000.

The carved emerald, sapphire and diamond jardinière brooch, c.1930, had been designed in the form of a vase of flowers, the pear-shaped emerald bead, weighing 13.60 carats, carved to both sides with an undulating pattern, presented as the vase itself, and embellished with vari-shaped step-cut diamond detailing.

 

From this emerald ‘vase’ burst a plant with brilliant-cut diamond foliage and fruits set with buff-top sapphires and vari-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum. Although unsigned, it has a French assay mark, is numbered ‘3563’, and is cased by Boucheron, all of which sparked considerable interest among bidders.

The jewel had come to Noonans via a valuation day in Petersfield, and Frances Noble, Associate Director and Head of the Jewellery Department at Noonans, explained its significance.

“During the early decades of the 20th century, the use of carved Mughal emeralds in contemporary jewellery reflected the growing fascination of master jewellers with the decorative arts of India. Louis Boucheron and Jacques Cartier, amongst others, were charmed by the ‘exotic’ arts and splendour of India and frequently visited seeking commissions and purchasing gemstones for their Western clients.

“These Indian-inspired jewels were particularly popular amongst British clientele due to the Imperial interests of the country at the time. This brooch encapsulates several influences and innovations of the period, not only using an Indian carved emerald bead but also in the Japanese-inspired motif of the Bonsai tree.”

A mid 20th century diamond and fancy-coloured diamond giardinetto brooch sold for £20,000 against an estimate of £8,000-10,000. It was an exceptionally pretty piece, beautifully crafted and set with assorted fancy-coloured diamonds.

Leading the watches was a rare stainless steel Rolex wristwatch made for the Japanese market in 1965, selling for a hammer price of £22,000. It came with the original retail receipt, service guarantee, spare link, and presentation case.

As Joanne Lewis, Watch specialist at Noonans said: “Luminescence has long been a standard feature of watch dials for viewing in the dark, but the chronograph in this sale was designed for the Japanese market with no lume to the dial or hands.

“The makers thought that having any radioactive material on a watch would put off buyers in Japan after the atomic bombings – hence the lack of lume on watches produced for that market.”

The highest price of the auction was paid for a stunning diamond bracelet centred with a pear-cut diamond and comprising a total diamond weight of approximately 44-50 carats, selling for a hammer price of £36,000.