REVIEW: JEWELLERY, WATCHES, SILVER & OBJECTS OF VERTU: 28 NOVEMBER

So many Art Deco highlights lit up this 28 November auction of jewellery that we bring you another selection here, starting with a c.1925-30 diamond brooch which left its £8,000 upper estimate well behind to sell for £15,000.

The stylised buckle brooch of openwork geometric design, set throughout with baguette, step, old brilliant and brilliant-cut diamonds, also featured old pear-shaped diamonds to either side. Mounted in platinum, it had a total diamond weight of approximately 15.00 carats.

 

As Frances Noble, Associate Director and Head of the Jewellery Department at Noonans, explained: “Although unsigned, the workmanship and style of this buckle brooch is comparable to the jewels of Cartier during the Art Deco period. The scalloped central section reflects the fascination that Cartier in particular had with the decorative arts of Persia and India, with inspiration taken from the patterns of Islamic architecture and textiles. The old pear-shaped diamonds in this brooch may have also come from an earlier jewel that a client wished to have remodelled, a practice that Cartier and other firms regularly undertook.”

A further Art Deco diamond brooch, of open scrollwork design, centrally set with two old brilliant-cut diamonds and adapted from a double clip brooch exceeded top estimate, selling for £7,000.

Beyond the Art Deco gems, a natural pearl, diamond and enamel pendant by Carlo Giuliano, dating to around 1865-75, did especially well, doubling top estimate to sell at £12,000. Of cruciform design, it was centred with a pearl, and bordered by old-cut diamonds within pyramidal settings, and further pearls to the cardinal points, with a pearl drop below set beneath a blue and white spotted enamel cap. The gold-mounted pendant was signed to the reverse: ‘C.G’.

A stylish French gold and diamond bracelet, circa 1940, modelled in the form of a polished strap and composed of concealed links, each set with a brilliant-cut diamond with an engraved star surround, and with odeonesque clasp, exceeded its pre-sale of £4,000-6,000, selling for £11,000.

A late 19th century sapphire and diamond hinged bangle set with three graduated oval mixed-cut sapphires of Sri Lankan origin spaced by old brilliant-cut diamonds was mounted in rose gold and made £7,500.

Also on offer was a selection of jewels by the designer Louis Osman, famed for creating the gold coronet at the Prince of Wales’ Investiture in 1969 at Carnavon Castle. A gold and diamond ring, created in 1970 by Osman for his daughter Marie-Louise, and bequeathed to the current vendor, composed of a broad concave planished band suspending a stylised tassel of three graduating diamond set bars, was offered for sale with the original pen and watercolour drawing, annotated by Osman. This ring had been included in an exhibition entitled ‘OSMAN’, held in May 1974 at Canons Ashby, Northamptonshire, a copy of this catalogue being included with this lot. The estimate was £2,000-3,000 was tripled, selling for £6,000.